On Fish in Manasollasa

Reproduced from Asian Agri-History Vol. 9, No. 3, 2005 (177–199)
On Fish in Manasollasa (c. 1131 AD)
Nalini Sadhale1 and Y L Nene2
1. B-1, Kanakalaxmi Apartments, Street No. 6, Hardikar Bagh, Himayatnagar, Hyderabad 500 029, Andhra
Pradesh, India (email: nalinisadhale@vsnl.net)
2. Asian Agri-History Foundation, Secunderabad 500 009, Andhra Pradesh, India
(email: ynene@satyam.net.in)
Abstract
We came across a very interesting description of fishing for royal recreation in the 12th century
compendium in Sanskrit titled Abhilashitarthachintamani or Manasollasa and authored by the
Western Chalukya King Someshvardeva (1126–1138 AD). The text includes description of 35 kinds of
marine and fresh water fishes, each with a distinct name, the feeds provided to few fishes, and the art
of angling. The text also includes a brief description of cooking fish. We have made an attempt to
identify Latin names of the fishes from the names given by Someshvardeva. Fishes described in the
text include sharks, a sawfish, a triggerfish, garfishes, carps, croakers, a spiny eel, catfishes, barbels,
murrels, a ray fish, gobies, and snakeheads. Only half a dozen of these were nurtured for the royal
game of angling. It is evident that considerable knowledge of fishes was gathered almost 900 years
ago, but was ignored in subsequent centuries.
We had earlier published a series of three articles containing the English translation of Sanskrit verses
on elephants as described by the Western Chalukya King Someshvardeva (Sadhale and Nene, 2004a;
2004b; 2004c). Someshvardeva or Someshvara III, who ruled from Kalyani (near Bidar in northern
Karnataka) between 1126 and 1138 AD, composed Manasollasa or Abhilashitarthachintamani
(Shamasastry, 1926) around 1131 AD. The authors had given earlier some details about this
compilation (Sadhale and Nene, 2004a; 2004b; 2004c). The Western Chalukya Empire included
substantial portions of Andhra Pradesh, Karnataka, and Maharashtra by the time of the rule of
Someshvardeva. It would be safe to assume that the languages spoken in his reign must have been
Kannada, Marathi, and Telugu. Also knowledge of fishes from the Andhra coast on the east to the
Maharashtra and Karnataka coasts on the west must have been available to Someshvardeva. In
Manasollasa, Chapter 14 of Section IV deals with royal recreation through fishing and has 52 verses
(verses 1381–1432). In addition, there are 13 verses (verses 1524–1536) in Section III, Chapter 13
describing preparations of fish as food.
By the time we had more or less completed the work of identifying Latin names of the fishes that had
been given names in Sanskrit in Manasollasa, we came across an excellent paper by Hora (1951),
which gives details about Manasollasa, the Sanskrit text related to fish, its translation in English, and
also the identification of fishes as well as the art of angling. Hora’s paper provided us with an
opportunity to confirm his work or express disagreements, especially in the identification of fish
species.
Translation of verses 1381–1432
(Manasollasa: Section IV, Chapter 14)
Royal recreation: fishing
Types of fish
1381. And now I describe below the game of fishing which is so dear to the kings. There are several
species of fish and it is not possible to count them all.
1382. Still I shall describe those that are relevant to this sport. There are two main categories of fish
according as they are born with plain skin or with scales.
1383. Each is further divided into two groups (depending on the size), viz., big and small. Charmaja
(scaleless) are those that are born with plain skin resembling a tree bark and not having scales.
1384. Shalkaja (scaly) is stated to be those that are born with scales or shells as the outer part of their
body. Again some are born in sea while others in rivers.
1385, 1386a. Here are some of the names to be remembered; sora, shringasora, chanvilocha, bala,
kantakara, and sankuchaka are scaleless varieties born in sea.
1386b, 1387a. Kovasaka, khirida, pathina, and simhatundaka are fishes of huge size and are born in
rivers.
1387b, 1388a. One is called patala-picchaka and has a crest of red color. Yet another is called
dantapatala. Both are of medium size, born in rivers and belong to the scaleless kinds.
1388b, 1389. Gagdhara, gojjala, vidruva, and a fish called kantharaya are of a small size born in the
rivers. Pandimana is a large fish belonging to the scaly kind.
1390, 1391a. Pallaka and tomara are medium-sized sea fish. Mahashila, kahlava, nadaka, vadisha,
and vatagi are large river fishes of the scaly type.
1391b, 1392a. Rohita, swarnamina, and khandalipa are powerful, though medium-sized river fishes
belonging to the scaly type.
1392b, 1393a. Marila, tumbaya, and vanchi are medium-sized fishes of the
scaly type. These three do not eat flour-balls and are meat-eaters.
1393b, 1394. Kaurattha swims six to seven yojanas (according to one calculation, yojana = 4 miles;
krosha = 9 miles) from a big river adjacent to a mountain or from a sea into a small river, and lives in
deep and large lakes.
1395a. This is the place from where they can be caught and not the sea.
1395b, 1396. Large kovakiya fish of the scaly type lives in a river in a place full of rocks and devoid
of mire. The medium-sized koraka and others live deep inside a river at a place full of rocks.
1397, 1398a. Rohita and such other fishes live in a sandy place deep inside the river while pathina and
others along with turtles live in very large lakes, undisturbed by running water and full of mud.
1398b, 1399. Thogyara, tumbaya, and vami live in water reaching up to naval, in the crevices of rocks
either at the forepart or rear of the lakes or even in the perilous middle, bends, or islands as they
please.
The food
1400. Fishes should be fed ground sesame, lumps of flour, or flour of parched grains, morning and
evening.
1401–1402. Kahlava, etc. should be fed on balls of the size of bilva fruit (Bengal quince; Aegle
marmelos) made from the roasted flour of chickpea mixed with cooked rice. The flour along with
beeswax should be mixed well in water along with ground sesame seeds mixed with cooked rice.
1403. Rohita and such other fishes should be fed on roasted flour of kusumbha (safflower) mixed
with cooked rice and grit of barley meal, shaped into balls of the size of badari (Ziziphus mauritiana).
1404. Vadisha fish should be fed on crushed leaves of bilva (Bengal quince) mixed with barley meal,
made into balls of the size of mango fruit.
1405. The wise should feed kovakiyas by scattering before them balls of the size of dhatri (emblic
myrobalan; Emblica officinalis) fruit made out of the same mixture and on sesame and pieces of
raven.
1406. Foul-smelling meat pieces should be given to pathinas and it is wise to feed the fish called
simhatundaka on dhichakas (?).
1407. Marila should be given crab flesh with effort. The wise should feed turtles or roasted flesh of
rats.
1408a. Small fishes should be provided with earthworms or with flesh.
1408b–1410a. At the places from where water is fetched and at the banks of ponds, arrangements
should be made (by the king) to nourish fishes carefully in this manner and being informed by
attendants, the king should gather together ropes and sticks to catch them.
The fishing rope
1410b–1412a. The king should order good strings to be made with the sturdy strands of murva
(Sanseviera roxburghiana), kanduka (betelnut tree; Areca catechu), or arka (Calotropis gigantea), or
with thin lotus fibers. Among these, strings made with murva are the best. Those made with kanduka
or arka are of medium quality and those made with cotton fibers are of an inferior quality. The
gradation in quality is due to difference in strength.
1412b, 1413a. An expert should make good strings uniformly lengthened out like the lamp-wicks,
with three strands, whether thick, medium, or thin.
1413b, 1415a. The maximum length according to the experts should be a thousand cubits (literally,
two hundred measures of two extended arms). Never should a string be made less than ten cubits
(literally, two measures of two extended arms) in length. Horse’s hair is the lower limit for thinness.
The rope must not be thinner than the stalk between the mango fruit and the twig to which it is
attached.
The rod
1415b–1417a. A cane (or bamboo) or a thorn-shaped branch coming up from the ground or a branch
of coconut (Cocos nucifera) is recommended for making the rod. It should gradually taper resembling
the tail of a chameleon. It should be made from a bamboo-half, having closely positioned knots and
no holes.
1417b–1419a. The circumference at the bottom of a big rod should not
exceed the measure of six angulas (where an angula is a measure of a finger’s breadth equivalent to
eight barley corns) while that of the small should not exceed half of that measure. Experts have
recommended angling rod made from cane that is neither too long nor too short, neither too flaccid
nor too rigid.
1419b, 1420a. The one made from a branch of a coconut tree should have a
(circumference ?) size of ten angulas and should have gradually tapering shape, too. It should not
have too compactly positioned knots.
1420b–1422a. The angle should be curved like a hook or like a horse’s
hoof or like a makanda (mango) fruit or resembling a crab or of the shape of a monkey. It should be
sharp and strong made with iron, broad at bottom but narrow (pointed) at the tip.
1422b, 1423. The spot on the fishhook for tying the rope should be round or like a plank, and that
depresses at the center. A thick rope should not be tied on to a thick rod, or a thin string on a thin rod.
1424. The thickness or the length should be determined by (the quantity of) water and (strength and
size of the) fish. The hook proportionate to the rope should be tied to the end of the rope.
1425. A peacock feather should be fixed in the middle of the rope and at the bottom of the rod,
another long rope, like a tail, should be fixed.
The fishing
1426, 1427. For the purpose of attracting the fish, the king should arrange to get fixed to the tip of the
hook, flour-item or flesh as per the liking of the particular fish, placing the same under water, at the
fishing spot. He, then, should watch the feather with a concentrated mind.
1428, 1429. When a fish touches the hook to eat the food-item fixed to it, shaking it (the feather) in
the process, he should notice the change instantly and cause the strike. The fishes eating either flesh or
other food-item move forward. When the fish gets strung on to the hook it struggles with full force.
1430. The fisher should, therefore, draw it out while it is weak. In the event of its gaining strength, he
should let go the rod and should gradually pull the fish out taking care to see that the rope does not
give way.
1431a. When the rod is released, he should otherwise drag out the fish by pulling the tail-rope.
Ending
1431b, 1432. Thus, King Soma, the Lord of the Earth, the most powerful among the mortal kings, has
described this sport of fishing, a sport related to fishes, for the purpose of recreation.
Translation of verses
1524–1536
(Manasollasa: Section III, Chapter 13)
The royal food: fish preparations
1524. In the preparation of scaled fishes, the scales must be first removed with effort. Then if the fish
are big they should be cut into pieces. If small, they can be used in the same (natural) form.
1525. Heads of fishes must be cut away (like the tail-part of birds). Intestines should be removed after
cutting open the belly.
1526. [The text does not make sense, particularly the first line that is printed with a question mark.
The verse appears to refer to certain names of the fish-species. It reads something like this: Kahnaka,
roshta (perhaps it could be misprint for proshthi), and vadisha should be burned with khavala,
chachuka, and pathina after cutting off their heads.]
1527–1529. Rub oil and salt on fish so that they become slimy and the odor fades away. Afterwards
wash them with water mixed with turmeric paste. Tie them in a piece of cloth and press to squeeze out
all the water inside. Then mix them with the anakas (?) previously cooked thoroughly and kept ready
for the purpose. After some time the cook should put down (from fire) the (earthen) dish and add
seasoning.
1530, 1531. Cut fishes into pieces and wash them well. Cook along with tamarind juice. Sprinkle well
with wheat flour. Fry in heated oil till brown. Add rock salt. Sprinkle powdered cardamom and
pepper.
1532. Cook fishes as per test, in anaka, oil, or smokeless fire as per the method described earlier.
1533, 1534. Cut fish into pieces, measuring four angulas (breadth of four angulas) each. Mix salt and
store in earthen jars. These are called kharakhandas (salted pieces) that can be preserved for a long
time. The cook should roast them in fire at the time of meals.
1535, 1536. Take out the scrotums of a fish and roast them in fire. When hard, cut into pieces and fry
in heated oil. Add powdered cardamom, pepper, and rock salt and season with asafetida.
Discussion
Types of fish
In all 35 names have been given by Someshvardeva with minimal information on their habitat (marine
or fresh water), presence or absence of scales (charmaja – scaleless; shalkaja – scaly), and size (large,
medium, small). Even this information is not given for each fish. As pointed out before the Western
Chalukya empire included people who spoke Kannada, Marathi, and Telugu. Names of fishes in these
languages, in addition to Sanskrit, were studied by us to understand the meaning of the fish names
given by Someshvardeva. We have used CSIR (1962), Watt (1890), and Buchanan (1807) for
identification of fishes.
Bala. This is a marine, scaleless, and possibly a large fish. Bala in Sanskrit connotes “powerful” or
“to injure”. Hora (1951) has wrongly read bala as baala meaning “ignorant person who does not
know, usually translated as fool”. A particular shark, Carcharhinus macloti Day, is called pala sorah,
which is a relatively small shark. We, therefore, suggest that bala stands for C. macloti.
Chanvilocha. It is described also as a marine and scaleless fish, and large size is implied. Chan in
Sanskrit could indicate “to injure or kill”, whereas lunch means “to tear” or “to pluck”. Hora (1951)
traced the name to the word vilochana in Sanskrit, meaning an eye, and suggested that this could be a
fish with “shining eyes”. Hora further suggested that this could be a species of sawfishes, Pristis sp.
We believe chanvilocha is Pristis microdon Latham, the small-toothed sawfish, found frequently in
Indian seas including the Mumbai area. Fishermen are scared of this fish as it can inflict serious
injuries when caught.
Dantapatala. In Sanskrit, danta means teeth and patala means red. Thus it should be a fish with red
teeth. Someshvardeva describes this fish as an inland, scaleless, medium-sized one. Hora (1951) has
identified this fish to be Eutropiichthys vacha Ham. We find it difficult to accept Hora’s identification
because E. vacha is found mostly in northern India and does not have red teeth. We suggest that
dantapatala is the trigger fish (Balistidae) Odonus niger Ruppel, which has red teeth and is scaleless
and medium-sized. It is a marine fish, but often found in inshore waters. It is present in Indo-Pacific
region (Wheeler, 1985). Though Indian workers have not described this fish, we would like to think
that this fish could have been present in northern Arabian Sea through to the Red Sea during the times
of Someshvardeva.
Gagdhara. Dhara in Sanskrit means possessing or holding. Gag does not have any specific
meaning. Hora (1951) has assumed that gag could be a phonetic variant of kag, which means a crow.
Hora suggested that this could be a fish having a crow-like beak, which made Xenedoton cancila
Ham. a good candidate. Xenedoton cancila is a garfish and has a long well toothed jaw. It is an inland,
scaly, and small fish. This fish is called kaduru in Telugu, which is phonetically close to the word
gagdhara. We agree with Hora’s identification.
Gojjala. This is an inland, scaly, and small fish. In Sanskrit gochara means within the range, such as
hearing or visible. The word gochi means a plant with sharp leaves. Hora (1951) suggested a different
interpretation; jala means water and goj means shallow. On this basis, Hora identified the fish as
Ophiocephalus punctatus Bl. We find that another fish, which fits in with the features mentioned
above and which is an excellent food, is Ompok bimaculatus Bl. It is a catfish. In Kannada, it is
known as godla, which is phonetically close to gojjala.
Kahlava. This has been mentioned as an inland, scaly, and large fish. If we try to trace the origin of
kahlava in Sanskrit, ka can mean water, lhaad means to be happy. Kahlava could thus mean
something from water that brings happiness. Also we believe the word catla has no origin in Latin
and probably the Sanskrit name kahlava was used for renaming the fish as Catla catla Ham., which is
a popular carp. Hora (1951) identified the fish as Barbus (Puntius) carnaticus (Jerdon), with which
we do not agree.
Kantakara. It has been described as a marine fish with no scales, but nothing has been mentioned
about the size. However, because kantakara has been grouped with sharks such as sora and
shringasora, we have assumed this one to be a large fish. The word kantakara in Sanskrit means one
that pricks with thorns. Hora (1951) suggested that the fish could belong to a species of a genus of
catfish eels, Plotosus. Species of Plotosus have spiny fins. We believe kantakara is the name of
Plotosus canius Ham., which is a common coastal and estuarine fish.
Kantharaya. This one has been described to be a small, inland, and scaly fish. Kantha in Sanskrit
means throat or voice and raya may mean raja (king) or speed. The whole word kantharaya could
mean a royal (impressive) neck. Hora (1951) identified kantharaya as Barilius bendelisis Ham.,
because the latter has a dark shoulder process, which could be likened to neck. It is a “trout” common
in the Western Ghats (Buchanan, 1807). We agree with Hora’s identification.
Kaurattha. The description given by Someshvardeva is minimal. He mentioned that kaurattha is a
marine fish that migrates through rivers to large lakes where it can be caught. There is no mention
about presence or absence of scales and its size. In Sanskrit, rathir means speedy, kur refers to sound,
and kaula connotes living in a family. Hora (1951) suggested that kaurattha could be Hilsa ilisha
Ham., but was not certain. Taking into account the meanings in Sanskrit, we suggest that kaurattha
could be Pseudosciaena diacanthus Lac. as this fish migrates to shallow areas of rivers, is a croaker
(ghol in Marathi), and lives in schools.
Khandalipa. This is an inland, scaly, and medium-sized fish. The root of the word khandalipa can
be traced in Sanskrit; khanda means broken and lipa means to cover or overspread. Hora (1951)
suggested the name Mastacembelus armatus Lacel. with which we agree. It is a spiny eel.
Khirida. This fish is riverine, large, and possibly scaleless. The name could not be traced to Sanskrit.
Hora (1951) tentatively identified it as Pangasius pangasius Ham., a catfish. Taking a clue from a
Marathi name, khirurh, we suggest khirida to be Rita gogra Sykes or Rita pavimentata Valenciannes,
which is common in the rivers of the Deccan and is also a catfish.
Koraka. This is an inland, medium-sized fish. No mention was made about scales. The word koraka
in Sanskrit would indicate a bud. Kur, as pointed out earlier, suggests making sound. In Indian
languages, there is a name karoua or korake for Pomadasys hasta Bl. (Watt, 1890), which is
considered a marine fish. However, it is known to enter estuaries and is found in almost fresh water
(Wheeler, 1985). We, therefore, suggest that koraka is P. hasta, which is a grunter. Hora (1951)
admitted his inability to identify the fish.
Kovakiya. This is an inland, scaly, and large fish. In Sanskrit kuvaak means a bad utterance, which
would indicate a fish belonging to croakers, etc. Hora (1951) tentatively suggested that kovakiya
could be Polynemous tetradactyles Shaw. We believe kovakiya fits in better with the fish known to be
common in Mumbai area, Pseudosciaena sina C., which is a croaker.
Kovasaka. This is a large fish found inland. Someshvardeva does not mention whether it is scaly or
scaleless, but the name appears in the text along with sharks. The word kovasaka in Sanskrit would
mean someone who inhabits filthy or stinking place. Hora (1951) suggested Mystus aor Ham. or M.
seenghala Sykes. We believe kovasaka could be M. seenghala, a catfish.
Mahashila. Someshvardeva mentions this to be a riverine, scaly, large fish. Mahashila in Sanskrit
could mean a large stone-like (powerful) fish. This name is very similar to the famous mahaseer fish
(Tor tor Ham.) of India. Hora (1951) suggested that mahashila could be South Indian Barbus (Tor)
mussulah Sykes or B. (Tor) khudree Sykes. Barbus khudree is not a large fish. Hora (1951) did not
consider Tor tor because it is present in northern India. We find that Day (Watt, 1890) mentions the
presence of T. tor all over India. We, therefore, suggest that mahashila is T. tor, a barb.
Marila. The nearest word in Sanskrit is maraal which means soft, tender, or yellowish red. It has
been described as a scaly, medium-sized fish. Its name appears with riverine fishes and also
Someshvardeva mentions that crabs have to be fed to this fish, obviously in a pond. Hora (1951)
identified it to be Ophicephalus striatus Bloch. Because a very similar fish is called maral in Marathi,
we suggest marila to be Channa (Ophicephalus) marulius Ham., which is a murrel. This fish makes
excellent food.
Nadaka. The word nadaka (or nalaka) in Sanskrit suggested a tubular shape or a reed-like
appearance. It is an inland, scaly, and large fish. Hora (1951) has identified this fish as Barbus
curmuca Ham., a barb, which is common in waters of Western Ghats. We agree with Hora’s
identification.
Pallaka. The word pala or palali in Sanskrit means heap of flesh. It has been described as a marine
fish of medium size. Presence or absence of scales has not been specifically mentioned. However,
pallaka probably is a scaly fish since it is grouped with scaly fishes, such as rohita, etc. Apte (1965)
mentions pallavaka as a kind of fish. Hora (1951) considered pallaka to be Luteanus roseus Day. We
disagree with Hora’s identifiction and suggest that pallaka is Hilsa ilisha Ham., which is known as
pala in Marathi and paliya in Kannada. Hilsa’s popularity as a table fish, in spite of numerous tiny
bones, is probably due to the high fat content. Hilsa belongs to the group commonly called ladyfishes.
Pandimana. This fish has been described as large and scaly, and possibly found in inland waters.
Pandu or panduriman in Sanskrit means pale or white and pandaa as “learned”. The word pandimana
in Sanskrit could mean, “liked by Brahmins”. Hora (1951) identified pandimana as Lates calcarifer
Bl. We believe pandimana to be the milkfish Chanos chanos Forsk. that is purely vegetarian in its
food habit, which relates to “learned” persons in the ancient Indian context. This fish is called pumin
in the Tulu language of Karnataka.
Patalapicchaka. This is a medium-sized, scaleless fish with a red crest and is found in rivers.
Picchaka in Sanskrit means tail. Hora (1951) identified it to be Clupisoma garua Ham. We do not
agree with Hora because C. garua is common only in northern India. We suggest that patalapicchaka
to be Mystus aor Ham., which has a dark caudal fin, and is a catfish.
Pathina. This has been described as a scaleless, large fish found in rivers. Paathi in Sanskrit means
someone who recites with the back moving back and forth in a sitting position. Amarkosha (Jha,
1999) mentions that pathina has one thousand molars. It is a fish that has been mentioned commonly
in the ancient literature of India, and was used in certain rituals. Hora (1951) identified it to be
Wallago attu Schn. and we agree with Hora’s identification. Pathina is a catfish.
Rohita. This has been described as scaly, medium-sized fish that inhabits rivers. Sanskrit literature
frequently mentions this name. Bhavaprakasha (Chunekar and Pandey, 1986) describes rohita as a red
fish that is best for human consumption. Rohita (or lohita) means red. Hora (1951) suggests rohita as
Labeo fimbriatus Bl. instead of L. rohita Ham. or popularly called rohu, because the latter is of a
rather large size, and not of medium size as described by Someshvardeva. However, we do not
consider Hora’s reason sufficiently strong. Many other authorities have consistently maintained that
rohita is L. rohita. Rohita also has a name (tambada masa = red fish) in Marathi. We, therefore,
maintain that rohita should be identified as L. rohita, which is a very commonly found carp.
Sankuchaka. In Sanskrit, sankuchaka means one that contracts itself. Someshvardeva described this
fish as a marine and scaleless fish; size was not mentioned but because it is grouped with sharks, we
assume it to be large. Apte’s Sanskrit-English dictionary (Apte, 1965) mentions sankocha as a skatefish.
Hora (1951) did not try to identify the species. Since skates and rays are considered
interchangeable groups, we tried to widen our range for identification. We find the name sankusha
used in India for Dasyatis (Pastinachus) sephen Forsk. and also this fish is found commonly on the
west coast of India. We suggest D. sephen is sankuchaka.
Shringasora. This has been described as a marine and scaleless fish, which by implication is large
in size. Sora means shark and shringa means horns. Probably because of a printing error, we find the
table in Hora (1951) shows it to be a sawfish. Shringasora clearly fits in with a hammer-headed shark,
Sphyrna blochii C., which is found off the west coast of India.
Simhatundaka. This one has been described as a large and riverine fish, presumably scaleless.
Simhatundaka in Sanskrit would indicate lion-faced. A catfish with a ferocious appearance and
behavior would be the obvious candidate. Hora (1951) suggested Bagarius bagarius Ham., which is
ferocious and has under-hung mouth. It is called baghar (tiger-like) in some Indian languages. We
agree with Hora’s identification.
Sora. Someshvardeva described this one as a marine, scaleless, and obviously a large fish. No
meaning can be traced in Sanskrit. In Telugu, sora is used for any shark. Sora is the first name listed
by Someshvardeva and was clubbed with other sharks. It must be an impressively large fish
commonly seen in Indian seas. Hora (1951) believed that the name sora was used in plural sense for
several sharks. We suggest that the name sora could have been used for the largest shark, Galeocerdo
tigrinus N.H., found in both west and east coast waters.
Swarnamina. This has been described as an inland, scaly, medium-sized fish, which in Sanskrit
would mean a golden fish. Names such as sarana (similar to swarna, gold) in Bengal and Orissa and
kannuka (kanakam in Sanskrit also means gold) in Andhra help us to identify this barb fish as Barbus
sarana Ham. Hora (1951) too has identified this fish as B. sarana.
Thogyara. This has been described as an inland fish. Other details are missing. It has not been
possible to trace thogyara’s origin in Sanskrit. Hora (1951) failed to identify this fish. Taking a clue
from two local names, yerrathok-mosu in Telugu, and tharimeenu in Kannada, we tentatively suggest
that this fish is Cirrhinus reba Ham., a carp found in fresh waters all over India.
Tomara. This one has been described as a medium-sized marine fish and most likely, scaly. The
word tomara in Sanskrit means a spear-like weapon or a forceful stroke. Hora (1951) suggested that
tomara could be the garfish (needle fish) Belone annulata Day. We agree with Hora’s identification.
Tumbaya. This one is a scaly, medium-sized fish most likely inhabiting inland waters. Tumbaya
means similar to a long gourd. According to Hora (1951), tumbuki in Telugu means puffed cheeks.
Using the latter meaning Hora suggested the name Glossogobius giuris Ham., and we agree. This
species belongs to the group called gobies.
Vadisha. This has been described as a riverine, scaly, large fish. It was fed leaves and barley,
suggesting a “vegetarian” diet. Hora (1951) tentatively identified vadisha as Notopterus chitala Ham.,
which is carnivorous. The word vadisha can be a phonetic variant of badisha or balisha. Taking a clue
from the word balisha, which indicates strong or powerful. We suggest vadisha to be Acrossocheilus
hexagonolepsis McClell., which is a barb.
Vami. This is a fish that is most likely an inland fish. Someshvardeva made no mention about its size
or scales. Vamah in Sanskrit means a snake, vam means vomit, and vaama means crooked. Hora
(1951) was not able to identify the fish. Taking a clue from the Sanskrit meaning of vamah as snake,
we suggest that vami should be the snakehead, Channa gachua Ham., which is found in fresh waters,
has scales, and is a small fish.
Vanchi. This has been described as a scaly, medium-sized fish, which probably inhabits rivers. In
Sanskrit, vaanchhi means desired, vacha is a fish name, and vanch means to deceive. For some reason
Hora (1951) suggested that vanchi could be Silonopangasius taakri Sykes, which is a medium-sized
fish but is without scales. He ruled out Silonia silondia Sykes as vanchi, even though its name in
Telugu is wanjou, because it is large and usually found in northern India. Another species, however,
Silonia childreni Sykes is found in Godavari and Krishna rivers and is also called wanjou in Telugu.
We believe vanchi should be S. childreni. This species belongs to family Schilbeidae.
Vatagi. This one is an inland, scaly, and large fish. In Sanskrit vat indicates a string. Hora (1951) did
not identify this fish. We believe it should be Channa leucopunctatus Sykes. Though C.
leucopunctatus is a marine fish, it is known to be present inland in the Deccan and the length can be
92 cm. It is also a snakehead and has an elongated body that could be considered string-like.
Vidruva. This is a riverine, scaly, and small fish. In Sanskrit vidruva may indicate something moving
fast or frightened. Hora (1951) stated that this fish could belong to genera such as Chela, Rasbora,
Danio, etc. We believe vidruva should be Oxygaster clupeoides Bl., a carp that is found all over India
and is a fast-moving fish.
A complete list of all the above fishes with their Sanskrit and Latin names has been given in Table 1.
The fish food
Someshvardeva mentioned only a few fishes that must have been popular for angling. These fishes
were kahlava (Catla catla), rohita (Labeo rohita), vadisha (Acrossocheilus hexagonolepsis), kovakiya
(Pseudosciaena sina), pathina (Wallago attu), simhatundaka (Bagarius bagarius), and marila
(Channa marulius). Of these kahlava, rohita, and vadisha were fed with vegetarian items, kovakiya
with vegetarian and meat items, and pathina, simhatundaka, and marila were fed with flesh. Thus the
choice of food items is in line with our knowledge today.
Food items mentioned were: ground sesame, flours including roasted flours of chickpea (Cicer
arietinum), cooked rice, and roasted flour of safflower mixed with cooked rice.
We would like to quote here comments from Hora (1951), which are valid today.
“. . . Somesvara shows a greater insight into the feeding habits of the fishes by dividing them into
groups and then prescribing a suitable ground bait for each group or kind. Further Somesvara also
prescribes the limit in size for the morsel of each variety of fish. He wants the ground bait to be
prepared into balls but he also indicates that feeding should be done morning and evening from the
steps used for taking water. The bottom is probably not steeply shelving in this place and the balls do
not roll away. MacDonald (MacDonald, A.St.J. 1948. Circumventing the mahseer and other sporting
fish in India and Burma. Bombay Natural History Society, Mumbai, India) suggests a mixture of mud
with food but Somesvara feeds fishes on articles of food only. . . . On the whole the technique of
ground baiting seems to have been better developed in Somesvara’s time than at the present day.”
The fishing rope, rod, and bait
We think Someshvardeva has given an excellent description of how to make the ropes, required for
angling, from the local resources. He described materials from which ropes can be made of different
strengths, lengths, and thickness. Likewise a very useful description of the rods, hooks, baits, and
striking, and playing fish has been given.
Fish preparations
The thirteen verses (1524 –1536) basically describe the procedure to clean and cook the fish, which is
not different from what is done today. Preservation by salting cleaned fishes has also been mentioned.
Table 1. Names of fishes in Manasollasa and their Latin equivalents.
Sanskrit name Devnagari script Latin name
Bala bjlj Carcharhinus macloti Day
Chanvilocha cjNivjljocj Pristis microdon Latham
Dantapatala dntjpjhZlj Odonus niger Ruppel
Gagdhara gjhgDjr Xenentodon cancila Ham.
Gojjala gjoJJjlj Ompok bimaculatus Bl.
Kahlava k*ljvj Catla catla Ham.
Kantakara kqZkhr Plotosus canius Ham.
Kantharaya kqVryj Barilius bendelisis Ham.
Kaurattha kOrtTj Pseudosciaena diacanthus Lac.
Khandalipa xjqLhiljpj Mastacembelus armatus Lacel.
Khirida ixjrIL Rita gogra Sykes
Koraka kork Pomadasys hasta Bl.
Kovakiya kovjhkIyj Pseudosciaena sina C.
Kovasaka kovjhsjk Mystus seenghala Sykes
Mahashila mjHhwjIlj Tor tor Ham.
Marila mjirlj Channa marulius Ham.
Nadaka njLk Barbus curmuca Ham.
Pallaka pjlljk Hilsa ilisha Ham.
Pandimana pjqLImjhnj Chanos chanos Forsk.
Patalapicchaka pjhZljipjcCk Mystus aor Ham.
Pathina pjhVInj Wallago attu Schn.
Rohita roiHtj Labeo rohita Ham.
Sankuchaka sjNkucjk Dasyatis sephen Forsk.
Shringasora W\Ngjsjor Sphyrna blochii C.
Simhatundaka isjNHtjuqLk Bagarius bagarius Ham.
Sora sjor Galeocerdo tigrinus N.H.
Swarnamina svjqj[mjInj Barbus sarana Ham.
Thogyara Tjogyjr Cirrihinus reba Ham.
Tomara tjomjr Belone annulata Day
Tumbaya tjumbjyj Glossogobius giuris Ham.
Vadisha vjiLwj Acrossocheilus hexagonolepsis McClell.
Vami vjhmjI Channa gachua Ham.
Vanchi vjh#cjI Silonia childreni Sykes
Vatagi vjZgjI Channa leucopunctatus Sykes
Vidruva ivjd`uvj Oxygaster clupeoides Bl.
Conclusion
It is clear that a systematic body of knowledge of both marine and inland fishes had accumulated in
India by 12th century
AD. Recognition of this knowledge was never recorded properly either by the Mughals or by the
British. Hora (1951) tried to take this ancient knowledge to the fishery scientists of India. However,
Indian scientists in general were looking only “westwards” then and apparently did not take Hora’s
paper seriously. It is high time we look for documents that would reveal our wisdom on this subject. It
is relevant to mention here a statement from Hora (1951).
“In (my) account, I have assessed point by point Somesvara’s knowledge about the sporting fishes of
India and the art of angling by comparison with the most up-to-date work on angling for Indian
sporting fishes by MacDonald (reference cited earlier) recently published by the Bombay Natural
History Society. In the absence of records of any observational data, which must have formed the
basis of the knowledge embodied in Matsyavinoda, one must wonder as to the length of time that our
ancients must have taken to accumulate so much factual and deductive knowledge. In some respects,
it has not been surpassed even now.”

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Fish in Marathi Maasa

दहा हजार मासेविक्रेत्यांकडून दिवसाला तब्बल पाच लाख किलोहून अधिक मासे मुंबईकरांच्या घरात येतात. समुद्रातील हे मासे किनाऱ्यावर आणण्याच्या पद्धतीत झपाटय़ाने बदल होत असले तरी स्थानिक बाजारात मात्र अजूनही पारंपरिक पद्धतीनेच खरेदी-विक्री होत आहे.  मॉलमधील प्लास्टिकच्या वेष्टनात मिळणारे मासे ग्राहकांना आकर्षित करून घेत असतानाच स्वच्छ व ताजे अन्न हा ग्राहकांचा हक्क  आहे, असे स्पष्ट करीत आता मांस-मासेविक्रेतेही एफडीएच्या अखत्यारीत येणार आहेत. या सर्व पाश्र्वभूमीवर मुंबईसह राज्याच्या प्रमुख भागांतील माशांच्या ग्राहकांपर्यंतच्या प्रवासाचा घेतलेला मागोवा..

 

मुंबई म्हणजे भारताच्या कानाकोपऱ्यातील माणसांसोबत आलेल्या त्यांच्या आहारविहाराचा मेिल्टग पॉइंट. दक्षिणेतील इडली, डोशापासून उत्तरेतील समोसा, पाणीपुरीपर्यंत ते अगदी जापनीज, चायनीज पदार्थही इथल्या स्थानिक स्वादात घोळून उपलब्ध होतात. याच मुंबईच्या खाद्यसंस्कृतीचे एक अस्सल वैशिष्टय़ म्हणजे मासे. जगातील बहुतांश प्रमुख शहरे किनाऱ्यावर असली आणि सर्वच किनाऱ्यांवर मासे मिळत असले तरी शेकडो प्रकारचे मासे आणि त्याचे गुणिले दहा पदार्थ इतरत्र कुठे मिळण्याची शक्यता दुरापास्तच. माशांचा वास नको म्हणून एकीकडे सोसायटीतील घरे नाकारणारी लॉबी आहे, तर दुसरीकडे स्वयंपाकघरातील झणझणीत कालवणाच्या निव्वळ वासाने तरतरी येणारेही आहेत. कुरकुरीत भाजलेले बोंबील, मसाला भरलेले पापलेट, तळलेली सुरमई, घमघमीत कोळंबी बिर्याणी.. स्वयंपाकघरातून जेवणाच्या ताटापर्यंत होणारा माशांचा प्रवास जसा रंग, रूप, वासाचे अनोखे दालन खुले करून देतो तसाच समुद्रापासून घरापर्यंत माशांचा होणारा प्रवासही अतिशय मनोरंजक आहे.
 मुंबई आणि ठाणे, रायगड, रत्नागिरी, सिंधुदुर्ग या पश्चिम किनारपट्टीवर रोज येणाऱ्या माशांची संख्या डोळ्यांना दिसली तरी मेंदूत गणित उतरायला वेळ लागतोच. वर्षभरात या संपूर्ण किनारपट्टीवर साधारण पाच लाख मेट्रिक टन मासा उतरतो. या माशातील ३५ हजार मेट्रिक टन वाटा एकटय़ा ससून डॉकचा. भाऊच्या धक्क्यावरही साधारण तेवढेच मासे उतरतात. यातील दीड लाख मेट्रिक टन मासे पूर्व आणि पश्चिमी देशांमध्ये जातात. याचाच अर्थ वर्षांला साधारण साडेतीन लाख मेट्रिक टन म्हणजे दिवसाला दहा मेट्रिक टन किंवा दहा लाख किलो मासे स्थानिक बाजारपेठेत येतात. त्यात अर्थातच मुंबईचा वाटा पन्नास टक्क्यांहून अधिक आहे.
कुलाबा, कफ परेड, जमशेदनगर, वरळी, माहीम, खारदांडा, मढ, मार्वे, मनोरी, भाटी, मालवणी, गोराई अशा किनाऱ्यांवरून कोळी बांधव मासेमारी करतात. संपूर्ण मुंबईत मासेमारीसाठी सुमारे २३ हजार होडय़ा समुद्रात जातात. त्यातील ११,८८६ मोठे ट्रॉलर आहेत. रात्री समुद्रावर जायचे आणि भल्या पहाटे मासे घेऊन किनाऱ्याला यायचे ही पद्धत मागे पडून जमाना झाला आहे. किनाऱ्याजवळ मासे सापडण्याचे कमी झालेले प्रमाण आणि मोठय़ा होडय़ांसाठी डिझेलचा वाढलेला खर्च यामुळे समुद्रात गेलेल्या लहान होडय़ा साधारण तीन ते चार दिवसांनी परततात. भाऊचा धक्का आणि ससून डॉकवर येणाऱ्या ट्रॉलरची रीत तर आणखीन न्यारी. खोल समुद्रात मासे पकडण्यासाठी गेलेली जहाजे किनाऱ्यावर येतच नाहीत. इन्सॅट बी या उपग्रहावरून समुद्रातील माशांच्या थव्याची नेमकी माहिती अक्षांश-रेखांशासह पोहोचवली जात असल्याने एकाच वेळी टनावारी मासे जहाजात जमा होतात. या जहाजांना डिझेल आणि अन्नाचा पुरवठा करून त्यांच्यावरील मासे परत घेऊन येण्याची कामगिरी मदरशिपवर असते. या बलाढय़ जहाजावरून साधारण १५ दिवसांनी किनाऱ्यावर माशांचा डोंगर ओतला जातो. माशांचे प्रमाण वाढले की, व्यापाऱ्यांकडून बोलीची रक्कम कमी होत असल्याने समुद्रातच सॅटेलाइट फोनवरून कोकण किनारपट्टीवरील माशांची चौकशी करून त्याप्रमाणेच माल किनाऱ्यावर आणला जातो. जहाजावरच माशांची वर्गवारी केली जाते. त्यातील पापलेट, कोळंबी असा चांगला, दर्जेदार माल पश्चिमी देशांसाठी रवाना होतो. पूर्वेकडील चीन, तवान, कोरिया, इंडोनेशिया अशा देशांमध्ये चिरी, बघा, शेवंडी, तारली असा थोडा कमी किमतीचा माल दिला जातो.
इकडे स्थानिक बाजारात ससूनच्या धक्क्यावर, सीएसटी रेल्वे स्टेशनजवळ याशिवाय दादर, अंधेरी, मालाड अशा मोठय़ा बाजारपेठांमधून सकाळी पाच वाजण्याच्या सुमारास बोली लावून माल उचलायला सुरुवात होते. पापलेट, कोळंबी, सुरमई, हलवा, करली, घोळ, रावस, कोटय़ा, माकूल, ढोमा, शिंगाडा, कुपा, बांगडा, घोळ, बोंबील, मांदेली, तारली, कांता यांसारखे माशांचे शंभरेक प्रकार बाजारात असतात. सर्वच मासे एका दिवसात विकले जात नाहीत. बुधवार, शुक्रवार आणि रविवारी माशांची किरकोळ विक्री तेजीत असते. याउलट मंगळवार, गुरुवार, सणाच्या दिवशी ही विक्री अध्र्याहून कमी होते. त्यामुळे या दिवशी माशांची घाऊक विक्रीही कमी होते. उरलेले मासे बर्फाच्या पेटय़ांमध्ये साठवले जातात. त्यासाठी प्रत्येक घाऊक विक्रेत्याकडे प्लास्टिकचे मोठे टब असतात. या लहान शीतगृहांमध्ये साधारण सहा ते सात दिवस मासे टिकतात.
काही वेळा विदेशांमध्ये नेलेले मासे कस्टम क्लिअरन्समुळे समुद्रातच अडकून पडतात. मासे साठवताना त्यातील ऑक्सिजन, ड्राय आइस यांचे प्रमाण कमी झाल्यास आयात करणाऱ्या देशाकडून नाकारले जातात. मग हेच मासे पुन्हा परतीच्या प्रवासाला लागतात. काही टनांमध्ये असलेले हे मासे मग थेट बाजारात उतरवले जात नाहीत. शीतगृहांमध्ये इतर मासे साधारण वजा १४ अंश सेल्सिअस तापमानाला ठेवले जातात. मात्र बरेच दिवस उलटलेले हे मासे वजा २८ अंशांपर्यंत गोठवले जातात. असे मासे सहा महिने टिकतात. मात्र त्यांच्या रूपावर-चवीवर परिणाम होतोच.
घाऊक बाजारातून हे मासे किरकोळ बाजारात येतात. मुंबईत अशा प्रकारे १०४ बाजार आहेत. याशिवाय रस्त्याकडेलाही माशांचा बाजार भरतो. संपूर्ण मुंबईत सुमारे दहा हजार कोळी महिला तसेच उत्तर भारतीय या व्यवसायात आहेत. सकाळी घाऊक खरेदी करून आणलेले मासे टिकवण्यासाठी भाजीविक्रेत्यांप्रमाणे मासेविक्रीतही दर्जाप्रमाणे किमतीचा फरक पडतो. ग्राहकही त्याला परवडतील त्याप्रमाणे लहान-मोठे, कमी-अधिक दर्जाचे मासे नेतो. चांगले ग्राहक टिकवायचे असतील, तर खराब मासे विक्रीला न ठेवण्याची खबरदारी घेतली जाते. थोडा मऊ पडलेला मासा सुकवण्यासाठी ठेवला जातो, तर इतर मासे सरळ कचऱ्यातही जातात. मासे उत्तम दिसण्यासाठी त्यात रंग मिसळण्याचा प्रकारही सर्रास चालतो. मांदेली, बोंबील लाल रंगात बुडवून ठेवले जातात. खवल्यातून पांढरे पाणी आल्यास मासा ताजा असल्याची खूण पटते. त्यामुळे खवल्यांमध्ये पांढरा गम लावला जातो. हे रंग आणि गमची चाचणी अर्थातच केलेली नसते. त्याच वेळी माशांवरील शायिनग टिकवण्यासाठी आणि वाढवण्यासाठी आरोग्यदृष्टय़ा चाचणी केलेली उत्पादनेही बाजारात मिळू लागली आहेत व त्याचा वापरही वाढतो आहे.
 विदेशात जात असलेल्या माशाला चांगला भाव मिळावा आणि व्यापार वाढावा यासाठी अत्याधुनिक तंत्रज्ञान वापरले जात आहे. त्यात सतत बदलही होत आहेत. मात्र स्थानिक पातळीवर माशांच्या बाजारात गेल्या पन्नास वर्षांत तर म्हणावा असा फरक पडलेला नाही. बर्फाचा वापर वगळता मासेविक्रीची पारंपरिक पद्धत बदललेली नाही. मॉलमध्ये प्लास्टिकच्या पिशवीत ठेवलेले स्वच्छ, बिनवासाचे मासे उपलब्ध होऊ लागले असताना मासेबाजारात मात्र माशांवरील गळणाऱ्या पाण्यातून आणि मांजरांच्या उडय़ांमधून मार्ग काढावा लागतो. मच्छीच्या कचऱ्यामुळे येणाऱ्या वासामुळे तर मासेविक्रेत्याही त्रासतात. मात्र या वातावरणात बदल करण्याचे प्रयत्न झालेले नाहीत. मात्र बाजारीकरणाच्या जोरदार रेटय़ात ही स्थिती बदलण्याची घंटा वाजते आहे, हे निश्चित..
२०११-१२
उत्पादन     ४,३३,६४४
निर्यात     १,५१,८६५
२०१२-१३
उत्पादन     ४,८९,३१३
निर्यात     १,४८,४८७
२०१३-१४
उत्पादन     ४,६७,४५८
निर्यात     १,४७,४११
(मेट्रिक टन)
अन्न व औषध प्रशासनाची भूमिका
राज्यातील पन्नास टक्क्य़ांहून अधिक रहिवाशांच्या जेवणात मांसाहार असतो. मात्र शाकाहाराच्या दर्जाबाबत आग्रही असलेल्या अन्न व औषध प्रशासनाकडून आतापर्यंत मांसाहाराची फारशी दखल घेण्यात आली नव्हती. दूध, किराणा सामान, पदपथ विक्रेते, किरकोळ विक्रेते, मांस-मासेविक्रेते अशा अन्नाशी संबंधित सर्वच क्षेत्रांसाठी अन्न व औषध प्रशासन मार्गदर्शक तत्त्वे लागू करण्याचा प्रयत्न करत आहे. स्वच्छ वातावरणात ताजे व आरोग्यदायी अन्न ग्राहकांपर्यंत पोहोचवण्यासाठी करायच्या बाबींचा त्यात समावेश असेल. अन्नपदार्थाचे पॅकिंग आणि दुकानातील मांडणीमध्ये आमूलाग्र बदल झाले असतानाच मासेविक्रीच्या पद्धतीत मात्र कोणताही बदल झालेला नाही. मासे विकत घेण्यासाठी अजूनही नाकावर रुमाल ठेवून आणि मासळीच्या पाण्यातून पाय घट्ट लावून चालतानाच माशांची पारख करावी लागते. बाजाराचे हे स्वरूप बदलण्यासाठी अन्न व औषध प्रशासनाने पावले उचलली आहेत. त्यासाठी सर्वप्रथम मासेविक्रेत्यांची नोंदणी सुरू करण्यात आली आहे.
डुप्लिकेट मासे आणि पापलेटचा साचा
स्वस्तात मिळणारा डुप्लिकेट माल मुंबईच्या बाजारपेठेत प्रसिद्ध आहे. माशांच्या बाबतीतही हे डुप्लिकेट प्रकरण तेजीत आहे. हॉटेलमध्ये सुरमई, पापलेट, रावस समजून ताव मारले जाणारे मासे हे प्रत्यक्षात कमी चवदार आणि किमतीत तर अगदीच स्वस्त असतात.
बाजारात ४०० ते ५०० रुपये किलो विकली जाणारी सुरमई परवडणारी नसल्याने त्याच्याऐवजी कुपा मासा घेतला जातो. या माशाचा भाव  साधारण ७० रुपये किलो आहे. रावस हा अप्रतिम चवीच्या माशाऐवजी तसाच दिसणारा कोटय़ा हा मासा दिला जातो.
कोटय़ापेक्षा रावसची किंमत सात ते आठपटीने जास्त आहे. भारतातही कोटय़ा हा रावस नावाने विकण्याचा व्यापार जोरात सुरू आहे.

बोनलेस फिश म्हणून ओळखला जाणाऱ्या बूट या माशाचे मांस चक्क पापलेटच्या तुकडय़ाचा आकार दिलेल्या साच्यात बसवून ग्राहकांना फसवले जाते. कुठे ६०० रुपये किलोपासून सुरू होणारा पापलेटचा प्रवास, तर कुठे बूटची १२०-१३० रुपये किलोची वेसण; पण पापलेटच्या आकाराला भुलून ग्राहक पसे मोजायला झटकन तयार होतात.
सुकी मासळी
मार्वे, मढ, मनोरी, भाटी, मालवणी, गोराई अशा पश्चिम किनाऱ्यावर पारंपरिक पद्धतीने मासेमारी चालते. पावसानंतरचे ऑगस्ट ते नोव्हेंबर हे भरपूर माशांचे दिवस. पावसामुळे किनाऱ्यावरचे प्रदूषण कमी झाल्याने या काळात बारीक माशांचे थवेच्या थवे कोळ्याच्या जाळीत अल्लद येतात. जवळा, बोंबील, करदी, वाकरी, भोमा अशा माशांना एक-दोन दिवस वाळवले, की ते वर्ष-सहा महिने टिकतात. मढ आणि भाटी या गावांमध्येच रोज २५ ते ३० टन मासे सुकवले जातात. इतर ठिकाणीही कमीजास्त प्रमाणात मासे सुकवण्याचे काम चालते. पूर्वी शेणाने सारवलेल्या खळ्यात मासे वाळवण्याचे काम चालत असे. आता त्याची जागा सिमेंट काँक्रीटच्या मैदानाने घेतलेली आहे. ऊन आणि वारा चांगला असला, तर दिवसभरात मासे सुकतात. नाही तर आणखी एखाद दिवस वाळवावे लागतात. गेल्या काही वर्षांत बर्फात मासे टिकवण्याची पद्धत वाढली असल्याने मासे सुकवण्याचे प्रमाण खूपच कमी झाले आहे. शिवाय माशांच्या विक्रीसाठी पाच-सहा महिने लागत असल्याने यात मासेमारी संघटनांनाही गुंतवणूक करणे जोखमीचे जाते. मात्र द्राक्ष तसेच भाताच्या शेतीसाठी खत म्हणून सुके मासे वापरले जात असल्याने या माशांना वेगळी बाजारपेठ खुणावते आहे.
शिळे मासे धोकादायकच
वर्षांनुवर्षे सोडल्या जात असलेल्या रसायनांमुळे तसेच सांडपाण्यामुळे मुंबईच्या किनाऱ्याजवळील पाणी प्रदूषित झाले आहे. या पाण्यात तग धरलेल्या माशांमध्ये काही प्रमाणात ही रसायने जातात. त्याचप्रमाणे काही शिंपले किंवा माशांचे प्रकारही विषारी असतात.
यासंबंधी कोळी महिलांना माहिती देण्यासाठी केंद्रीय सागरी मत्स्य संशोधन केंद्राने गेल्या वर्षी कार्यशाळा घेतली होती. बांगडा, सुरमई, कुपा या स्कॉम्ब्रॉइड जातीच्या माशांमध्ये हिस्टडीन हे अमिनो आम्ल असते. हे मासे शिळे होताना या आम्लाचे हिस्टामाइनमध्ये रूपांतर होते.
त्यामुळे अनेकांचे पोट बिघडते, ओठावर-हातावर सूज येते, लाल पुरळ उठते. ताजे असल्यास या माशांचा त्रास होत नाही, मात्र बर्फात ठेवलेल्या ताज्या व शिळ्या माशांमधील फरक सहसा लक्षात येत नाही. माही, तारल्या, पेडवे हे सागरीजीवही शिळे झाल्यास त्रास देतात. शिवल्यासारख्या कवचधारी जीवांमधूनही पोट बिघडते.
यामुळे शरीरात गेलेल्या विषाचे प्रमाण अधिक असेल तर भरकटल्याप्रमाणे वाटणे, श्वसनास त्रास होण्यासारखे प्रकार घडतात. वेळीच उपचार न झाल्यास जिवावरही बेतू शकते. आपल्याकडे मासे खाताना डोके व पोट काढून टाकले जाते. उरलेले मांस व त्यावरील चरबीचा पातळ थर त्रासदायक ठरत नाही. शिवाय हे मासे नीट शिजवून खाल्ले जात असल्याने माशांमुळे खूप त्रास झाल्याचे दिसत नाही. मात्र शिळे मासे ग्राहकांपर्यंत न पोहोचण्याची व्यवस्था राबवायला हवी.
(मच्छीमारांचे ज्येष्ठ नेते रामदास संधे, किरण कोळी, अन्न व औषध प्रशासन अधिकारी आणि केंद्रीय सागरी मत्स्य संशोधन संस्थेचे माजी प्रमुख संशोधक डॉ. विनय देशमुख यांनी दिलेल्या माहितीनुसार)
कोकणात कोटय़वधींची उलाढाल
महाराष्ट्राला लाभलेला विस्तीर्ण सागरी किनारा म्हणजे मत्स्य संपत्तीचा जणू खजिनाच! या खजिन्यात हर प्रकारचे मासे आढळतात. स्वाभाविकपणे इथे दरवर्षी घाऊक व्यापारातून कोटय़वधी रुपयांची उलाढाल होते. पण त्याचबरोबर या कोकण किनारपट्टीवरच्या लहानमोठी गावं आणि शहरांमध्ये असलेला किरकोळ ग्राहकही या उलाढालीचा हिस्सा असतो.
रत्नागिरी जिल्ह्यात शहराजवळ असलेली मिरकरवाडय़ाची जेटी हे या उलाढालीचे जिल्ह्यातलं मुख्य केंद्र. सुरमई, पापलेट, सरंगा, झिंगा, कुर्ली, रेणवी, बांगडा, तारली इत्यादी हर प्रकारचे मासे इथे या काळात उपलब्ध असतात. उत्पन्न 'बंपर' असेल तर सुरमई अडीचशे-तीनशे रुपये किलोपर्यंत किंवा पापलेट हजार-बाराशे रुपयांपर्यंत मिळू शकते. पण या मार्केटपेक्षाही संध्याकाळी बोटी 'माल' घेऊन येतात तेव्हा जेटीवरच्या बाजारातही किरकोळ दराने ताजी मच्छी मिळते. शहरातल्या मच्छी मार्केटमधले व्यापारी इथे होणाऱ्या लिलावात या माशांची खरेदी करतात आणि दुसऱ्या दिवशी मार्केटमध्ये येणाऱ्या किरकोळ गिऱ्हाइकांना चढय़ा भावाने विकतात. जाणकार व खवय्ये मंडळी मात्र जेटीवरच्या या किरकोळ बाजारातच हौसेने खरेदी करतात. मार्केटमध्ये नगावर किंवा वाटे घातलेली मच्छी घ्यावी लागते, पण या ठिकाणी वजनावरही मच्छी मिळू शकते. घाटावरून येणाऱ्या पाहुणे मंडळींना इथला मासा घरी घेऊन जायचं असेल तर या बाजारात बर्फ घातलेल्या थर्मोकोलच्या बॅग मिळतात.  शहरालगतच्या ग्रामीण भागातही इथून टोपल्यांमधून मासे नेऊन विक्री केली जाते.  रत्नागिरीप्रमाणेच जिल्ह्यात हर्णे, वेलदूर, नाटे इत्यादी ठिकाणीही अशा प्रकारे माशांचा घाऊक व किरकोळ व्यापार चालतो. पण या दोन्ही प्रकारांत स्वाभाविकपणे रत्नागिरी 'जंक्शन' मानलं जातं. एक काळ असा होता की, मटण न परवडणारा माणूस मच्छी खात असे. पण काळाच्या ओघात मच्छीचेही भाव मटणाच्या जवळपास गेले आहेत. त्यातही खिशात पैसे खुळखुळत असतील तर सुरमई, पापलेट, कोळंबी, कुर्लीची खरेदी होते. मात्र आर्थिक परिस्थिती बेताची असलेला माणूस बोयर, कानट, कांटा, काचू यासारख्या खाडीतल्या माशांवर समाधान मानतो. अधूनमधून मत्स्य दुष्काळाची हाकाटी होते. अन्य क्षेत्रातील महागाईच्या झळा इथेही जाणवू लागल्या आहेत. तरीसुद्धा ही चंदेरी संपत्ती मत्स्याहारींची भूक आणि जिभेचे चोचले पुरवत आहे.
- सतीश कामत
कोकणात कोटय़वधींची उलाढाल
महाराष्ट्राला लाभलेला विस्तीर्ण सागरी किनारा म्हणजे मत्स्य संपत्तीचा जणू खजिनाच! या खजिन्यात हर प्रकारचे मासे आढळतात. स्वाभाविकपणे इथे दरवर्षी घाऊक व्यापारातून कोटय़वधी रुपयांची उलाढाल होते. पण त्याचबरोबर या कोकण किनारपट्टीवरच्या लहानमोठी गावं आणि शहरांमध्ये असलेला किरकोळ ग्राहकही या उलाढालीचा हिस्सा असतो.
रत्नागिरी जिल्ह्यात शहराजवळ असलेली मिरकरवाडय़ाची जेटी हे या उलाढालीचे जिल्ह्यातलं मुख्य केंद्र. सुरमई, पापलेट, सरंगा, झिंगा, कुर्ली, रेणवी, बांगडा, तारली इत्यादी हर प्रकारचे मासे इथे या काळात उपलब्ध असतात. उत्पन्न 'बंपर' असेल तर सुरमई अडीचशे-तीनशे रुपये किलोपर्यंत किंवा पापलेट हजार-बाराशे रुपयांपर्यंत मिळू शकते. पण या मार्केटपेक्षाही संध्याकाळी बोटी 'माल' घेऊन येतात तेव्हा जेटीवरच्या बाजारातही किरकोळ दराने ताजी मच्छी मिळते. शहरातल्या मच्छी मार्केटमधले व्यापारी इथे होणाऱ्या लिलावात या माशांची खरेदी करतात आणि दुसऱ्या दिवशी मार्केटमध्ये येणाऱ्या किरकोळ गिऱ्हाइकांना चढय़ा भावाने विकतात. जाणकार व खवय्ये मंडळी मात्र जेटीवरच्या या किरकोळ बाजारातच हौसेने खरेदी करतात. मार्केटमध्ये नगावर किंवा वाटे घातलेली मच्छी घ्यावी लागते, पण या ठिकाणी वजनावरही मच्छी मिळू शकते. घाटावरून येणाऱ्या पाहुणे मंडळींना इथला मासा घरी घेऊन जायचं असेल तर या बाजारात बर्फ घातलेल्या थर्मोकोलच्या बॅग मिळतात.  शहरालगतच्या ग्रामीण भागातही इथून टोपल्यांमधून मासे नेऊन विक्री केली जाते.  रत्नागिरीप्रमाणेच जिल्ह्यात हर्णे, वेलदूर, नाटे इत्यादी ठिकाणीही अशा प्रकारे माशांचा घाऊक व किरकोळ व्यापार चालतो. पण या दोन्ही प्रकारांत स्वाभाविकपणे रत्नागिरी 'जंक्शन' मानलं जातं. एक काळ असा होता की, मटण न परवडणारा माणूस मच्छी खात असे. पण काळाच्या ओघात मच्छीचेही भाव मटणाच्या जवळपास गेले आहेत. त्यातही खिशात पैसे खुळखुळत असतील तर सुरमई, पापलेट, कोळंबी, कुर्लीची खरेदी होते. मात्र आर्थिक परिस्थिती बेताची असलेला माणूस बोयर, कानट, कांटा, काचू यासारख्या खाडीतल्या माशांवर समाधान मानतो. अधूनमधून मत्स्य दुष्काळाची हाकाटी होते. अन्य क्षेत्रातील महागाईच्या झळा इथेही जाणवू लागल्या आहेत. तरीसुद्धा ही चंदेरी संपत्ती मत्स्याहारींची भूक आणि जिभेचे चोचले पुरवत आहे.
The jetty near Ratnagiri district mirakaravadayaci this turnover jilhyatalam center. Surmai, Pomfret, Sarangi, drunk, kurli, renavi, bracelet, saved, etc. are available in every kind of fish here. Income 'Bumper' can be obtained if Surmai fifty-three hundred rupees twelve thousand rupees kiloparyanta or Pomfret. But this evening marketapeksahi ships 'cargo' come and get the fresh fish at the retail market jetivara. Marketamadhale traders who buy fish or fish within the auction held here and the next day in the market are sold from retail girhaikanna cadhaya brother. Savvy and singer of the church, but jetivara procure retail bajarataca ardently. Needs to be inserted in the fish market rate or the way, but it can get fish vajanavarahi in this place. If you go home with a fish drunk people coming here since ghatavaruna this case the market gets inserted thermocol of snow. Saharalagata rural areas far from the baskets of fish is sold outside. Ratnagiripramaneca district harne, veladura, short, etc. Wholesale and retail fish trade places, so it works. But both types of naturally Ratnagiri 'Junction' is considered. There was a time, he can afford not to eat fish meat. But in the course of time have been around the macchicehi Meat prices. If there are pocket money khulakhulata Surmai, Pomfret, Prawns, kurlici was purchased. However, the economic situation of anything man Boyer, Kanat, fork, kacu like to thank khaditalya fish solutions. Fish were occasional outcry famine. Other sectors are facing inflation was realizing practical. However, this is not the silver treasure cajolement matsyaharinci appetite and tongue.
सतीश कामत
विदर्भात मागणी कमीच..
विदर्भात इतर मांसांच्या तुलनेत मासे खाण्याचे प्रमाण अत्यल्प आहे. गरजेच्या तुलनेत मासे उत्पादन कमी होत आहे. मागणी पूर्ण करण्यासाठी हैदराबाद आणि कोलकाता येथून विदर्भात मासे आणले जातात. विदर्भात  मासेविक्रीतील एका दिवसाची सरासरी उलाढाल दोन कोटी रुपये एवढी आहे.
विदर्भातील गोडय़ा पाण्यातील माशांची मागणी संपूर्ण देशात असली तरी उत्पादन कमी होत असल्याने ते अन्यत्र पाठवले जात नाहीत. विदर्भात ४ लाख ५० हजार हेक्टरमध्ये मासे उत्पादन घेतले जाते. जवळपास एका वर्षांचे उत्पन्न ७९ हजार ८०२ मेट्रिक टन एवढे आहे. मच्छीमार मासे पकडून ते जिल्हास्तरीय बाजारात आणतात. नागपुरातील भालदारपुरा येथे विदर्भातील सर्वात मोठा बाजार आहे. मोठे दलाल या मच्छीमारांकडून मासे खरेदी करतात. त्यानंतर ते मासे लहान दलाल व विक्रेते खरेदी करतात.  सर्वाधिक मासे गोसीखुर्द प्रकल्प, वडगाव येथील रामा, नांद आणि पेंच धरणातून प्राप्त होतात. या धरणातीलच मासे विदर्भातील इतर जिल्ह्य़ांत पाठवले जातात. या व्यवसायात ५ लाख मच्छीमार गुंतले आहेत.  सध्या डॉक्टर मासे खाण्यास सांगत असल्याने मासे खाण्याकडे लोकांचा कल वाढत असल्याची माहिती नवी दिल्ली येथील राष्ट्रीय मत्स्यजीवी सहकारी संघाचे अध्यक्ष प्रकाश लोणारे यांनी  दिली.  मासे खाण्याकडे लोकांचा कल वाढावा यासाठी संपूर्ण विदर्भात मासे खाद्य मेळावे आयोजित करण्यात येणार आहेत.
-सुनील तिजारे
पुणे, नाशकात बाजारात तेजी
कॉस्मोपॉलिटन होत असलेल्या पुणे आणि नाशकात आता माशांची मागणीही वाढत आहे. माशांकडे पुणेकर अजूनही तिरकस नजरेने पाहत असले तरी पुण्यात वाढत चाललेल्या 'परप्रांतीयां'च्या लोकसंख्येमुळे माशांचा बाजार हळूहळू जोर धरतो आहे. नाशकातही वेगळे चित्र नाही.
पुण्यात गोडय़ा पाण्यातले आणि समुद्रातले असे दोन्ही प्रकारचे मासे चांगले खपतात. पापलेट, हलवा, सुरमई, कोळंबी, बांगडा, रावस, तारली, खेकडे, तिसऱ्या, रऊ, कटला हे मासे येथे लोकप्रिय आहेत. सर्वच माशांची आवक दररोज होते, अशी माहिती माशांचे व्यापारी अनिल सुपेकर यांनी दिली. पुण्यात माशांसाठी खास गल्ल्या नाहीत, मात्र खडकी, कॅम्प, गणेश पेठ, गंजपेठ, विश्रांतवाडी, पर्वती, शुक्रवार पेठ येथे रस्त्यावर भाजीविक्रेत्यांप्रमाणे मासेविक्री होते.
Pune godaya panyatale and samudratale that accounts for both types of fish is good. Pomfret, move, Surmai, prawns, bracelet, Raavas, saved, crabs, third, Reu, carp fish are popular here. All fish were daily arrivals, information, Anil supekar fish traders said. Pune fish are not expressly streets, but Khadaki, Camp, Ganesh Peth, ganjapetha, fine, Parvati, was masevikri bhajivikretyampramane on the road Friday at Peth.
नाशकात भद्रकाली मच्छीबाजार हे माशांच्या खरेदीचे मुख्य ठिकाण आहे. तेथून हे मासे मग रस्तोरस्तीचे किरकोळ विक्रेते घेऊन जातात. दिवसाला मुख्य बाजारात साधारण दोन हजार किलो मासे येतात. हे मासे प्रामुख्याने मुंबईतूनच येतात. स्थानिक नद्या, धरणांमधील मासेही बाजारात येतात, मात्र त्यांना विशेष उठाव नसतो. वाम, पापलेट, सुरमई, कोळंबी, बोंबील, रावस या माशांना मागणी असते. असे साधारण ३५ ते ४० प्रकारचे मासे नाशकात पाहायला मिळतात. तारलीसारखा मासा १०० रुपये किलो तर कापरी पापलेटची  किंमत १४०० रुपये किलोपर्यंत जाते.  मुंबईतून रोज ताजे मासे येत असल्याने मासे साठवण्याची विशेष गरज भासत नाही. मात्र एखाद-दोन दिवसांसाठी बर्फाच्या पेटय़ांचा उपयोग केला जातो. भद्रकाली मच्छीबाजारात स्थानिक प्रशासनाने मच्छीविक्रेत्यांना शेड बांधून दिली आहे.
Nashik is the main point of buying fish that macchibajara Bhadrakali. These fish are there and rastorastice with retailers. The main markets are generally two thousand kg of fish per day. These fish are mainly Mumbai. Local rivers, dharanammadhila fish market, but they do not have a special deal. Left, Pomfret, Surmai, prawns, bombil, Raavas demand for this. It gets about 35 to 40 types of fish to see Nashik. Taralisarakha fish is kiloparyanta Rs 100 to Rs 1400 price Pomfret Capri kg. Since coming to Mumbai fish fresh fish every day does not need to store special. However, they used a couple of days of ice petayanca. Bhadrakali macchibajarata has built local authorities macchivikretyanna shed.
- संपदा सोवनी, अनिकेत साठय़े


प्रचंड प्रमाणात सांडपाणी आणि त्यावरील शेवाळामुळे वांद्रे ते वरळीच्या सागरी पट्टय़ात तारली माशांचा जणू महापूर आला आहे. प्रदूषणामुळे एकीकडे किनाऱ्यावरील मासे नष्ट झाल्याचा अनुभव येत असताना तारली मासे मात्र लाखोच्या संख्येने कोळ्यांच्या जाळ्यात सापडत आहेत. चवीला उत्तम असणाऱ्या या माशांमुळे खवय्ये त्यावर तुटून पडत असले तरी, यामुळे आरोग्याच्या कोणत्या समस्या उद्भवू शकतात, यावर अद्याप शास्त्रोक्त अभ्यास झालेला नाही.
तारली मासे लांबुडके, पोटाकडे गोल असतात. गेल्या काही वर्षांत ते बांगडय़ाला पर्याय ठरले आहेत. किरकोळ बाजारातही १०० रुपये किलोने मिळत असलेली ही स्वस्त मासळी पूर्वेकडील देशांमध्येही मोठय़ा प्रमाणात निर्यात केली जाते. मुंबईच्या किनाऱ्यालगत रोज टनावारी हे मासे मिळतात. मात्र सांडपाण्यात वाढणारे हे मासे चिंतेचा विषय ठरले आहेत. जिथे जिथे नदी, नाले किंवा गटारे समुद्राला मिळतात, तिथे हे मासे गोळा होतात, असे निरीक्षण मच्छीमार नेते रामदास संधे यांनी नोंदवले.
अरबी समुद्राच्या दक्षिण भागातील तापमान  वाढल्यामुळे तुलनेने थंड असलेल्या उत्तरेकडे तारली मासे सरकले आहेत. सांडपाण्यात वाढणारे शेवाळ हे या माशांचे खाद्य आहे. त्यामुळे त्यांची संख्या वाढली आहे, अशी माहिती केंद्रीय सागरी मत्स्य संशोधन केंद्राचे माजी संशोधक डॉ. विनय देशमुख यांनी दिली. हे मासे शिजवल्यावर त्याला तेल सुटते, त्या तेलाचा वास काहींना सहन होत नाही. मात्र या माशांच्या आरोग्यावरील परिणामांबाबत सध्या तरी तक्रारी नाहीत. अर्थात, या माशांवर अजूनही शास्त्रोक्त अभ्यास झालेला नाही, असे त्यांनी सांगितले.  


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